Most large scale
aquaponics systems use a filter system setup that includes a centrifugal ‘solids
filter’ which settles the actual fish poo solids out of the water so
that it never reaches the grow beds. A media filled grow bed WILL filter
out the solids for you. About the last thing you want is solids
settling in your grow bed, as this will accumulate into a stinking mess!
Not good for your in home aquarium.
There are a couple ways of making a
‘solids’ pre filter for your grow bed if you aren’t using an external
canister filter.
If
you are using a power-head for an undergravel filter you should be
already set up with a solids pre-filter. The aquarium gravel will work
quite well for this task. You just need to siphon clean the gravel at
the normal regular intervals. There may be a few instances where you
could have solids pass through the gravel though. If your power head is
too powerful for the size of under gravel filter you have, or if the
gravel isn’t deep enough to adequately capture the solids - either there
is a hole or thin spot, or you don’t have enough.
Adapting an existing
filter
If
you are using a regular submersible water pump or you feel that your
canister or powerhead pumps don’t do a good enough job, you can build a
pre-filter right at the grow bed.
If you have an extra over-the-back hang
on filter, you can pump water into that, and allow it to filter the
water into your growbed. Even if the motor is burned out, makes an awful
racket, or otherwise doesn’t work, it won’t matter as we aren’t using the motor .
You
will likely need to leave the motor attached though, is they often time
plug a hole on that side. If it leaks, take it off (usually a half
twist of the pump motor) and add a little petroleum jelly to the rubber
o-ring, or if it’s really bad, replace the o ring, and then reinstall
the pump motor.
Take the pickup tube that came with the filter off, as we
don’t need this. Let the water pour into the filter either in the area
where the pickup tube used to be or behind the media.
You can use regular
filter refill kits doing it this way. When the filter media gets filled
up, it will then overflow onto the pickup tube side. Clean or replace
the filter media at this point. I usually get several cleanings before I
need to replace the media. Make sure you use cold or luke warm water to
clean it as hot water will kill the beneficial bacteria in the filter.
Never use soap.
Building a filter housing from scratch
If you want, you can
also build a solids filter from a plastic container. I would first see
what’s readily available for filter media and inexpensive in your area.
If you can get the best price on round cut foam for canister filters,
then round containers such as juice pitchers would be the container of
choice. If it’s square or cut to fit, then a rectangular container may
be better. Loose aggregate type materials will fit in either, obviously.

If your going to set
the filter into the grow bed, then get either 2 containers that nest
into each other or get a 2nd larger container that you can put your
filter into. This will allow you leave the larger container in the grow
bed while you clean the filter container and not worry about the grow
media filling in the hole. You could also just set the filter on top of
the media, but this may not look as good as having it half buried in the
back. I also feel that having the filter buried will be less likely to
have it tip over and have the pump hose fall out of the grow bed and
pump all your aquarium water on the floor.
Try to get an opaque
lid for the container. The pump outlet can create a lot of splashing so a
lid would reduce the water loss and smell. Having no light pass through
the lid will reduce any algae issues as the pre-filter is likely to be
in a well lit area - directly under your grow lights.
Example top down flow
filter
This
example is for round filter foam and a container such as a juice
pitcher. This style will only work if your foam filter pads are the same
size or slightly larger then your container.
Theory of operation:
The water is pumped
into the top of the filter container where it splashes out onto the
aggregate. The water filters through the aggregate so that when it
reaches the bottom of the pile, the water is evenly spread out and
flowing evenly into the foam filter pads. The Foam filter pads filter
out the solids. The water flows out holes in the bottom of the container
into your growbed.
Needed
parts:
- Filter Container
- Larger Container
(optional)
- Course aggregate
- Bioballs
- ceramic tubes
- course stone
- course crushed sea
shells if these are part of your water chemistry treatment plan
- foam filters
- small support
container (optional) (margarine container?)
Needed Tools:
Instructions:
You will want to put
everything together before you drill any holes so you know that it fits
well.
If you have a lot of
foam filter pads, you can start them at the bottom of your filter
container and stack them up half way to the top. If you only have a few,
you will want to first put the small support container in first, then
stack up the filter foam pads on top.
The aggregate gets poured on top of the
foam pads.
If
everything fits well, you can take it apart and drill your holes. The
aggregate should not want to fall down between the edges of the foam and
the container. The system should be pretty full of medium, but not
right up to the top. You will want a couple of inches above the
aggregate for water to pool when the filter starts to get plugged up and
the water flow slows.
Time to drill the holes.
If you are using the
storage container, you will want to drill holes in the lid and the sides
so water can flow through it. If you don’t have a lid, you can turn it
upside down and have the holes in the bottom and sides. The idea is to
support the foam, so the widest end should be up to provide the best
support. Lots of holes is good. You just don’t want so many that the
container is weakened and collapses when the foam and aggregate are
added.
You
then drill holes around the outside of the container. You will want to
keep the main container holes below the top of the support so the water
flows all the way through the foam filters. Several good sized holes are
all that’s needed. Too many are better then too few.
If you are using foam
pads all the way to the bottom, you will need more holes. A lot more
holes. The idea is to have lots of ways for the water to flow through
the foam so it’s less likely to plug up. You will want to drill holes up
only one or two pads height from the bottom.
If you are using a
juice container, you can likely feed the water hose through the pour
spout. If not, either drill a hole in the side near the top or in the
lid for the water hose. Try to get the hose situated so that it will
direct the water near the center of the filter. You may want to drill a
small hole so that you can zip-tie the hose in place. Hoses like to jump
around when pumps first turn on such as when the power goes out and
comes back on. It would be a bad thing to have the hose jump out of the
filter.
If your truly paranoid
(like me) you can drill an overflow hole near the top, but below the
hose inlet. This can either be drilled so any water coming out goes
towards the center of the grow bed instead of out, off the side and onto
your living room floor or have an overflow hose that directs the water
back into the aquarium.
Assemble your new filter, hook it up and see
how it works. You should now have a grow bed that will stay cleaner for a
much longer period of time. If the filter starts to smell or water
starts accumulating at the top, it’s time to clean it. Rinse everything
with cool water. Again, don’t use any soap, we have lots of good
bacteria in this filter!
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